Technical Information: 1. Vacuum boosters put out between 700-1,000lbs of pressure. That's the amount of pressure added to your braking capabilities (how much more pressure you can put on the brake pedal compared to manual brakes.). 2. Hydroboosts put out between 2,400-2,700lbs of pressure. This gives you 2-3 times the power of a vacuum booster. This is enough power to stop you in almost any circumstance, including towing. This system will only put out as much pressure as you demand. Step on it easy to come to a slow stop, hard to lock up all 4 tires. 1. Vacuum boosters need to be applied about 1 inch before it activates the booster. That's 1 inch of travel you go down before even activating your brakes. 2. Hydroboosts have a straight shaft in them that activates the master cylinder as soon as you step on your brake pedal, saving you that 1 inch of travel. 1. When you lose power on a vacuum booster the pedal can actually press back on your foot making it harder to stop than manual brakes. You're also applying through the diaphragms making it harder. When a vacuum unit goes bad (bad diaphragm or seal) you lose all power, there's really no middle ground. It's either good or very bad. 2. With the hydroboost's straight shaft loss of power reverts to true manual brakes. In both systems you get 1 application of power before reverting to manual. Eventually everything fails (10 years and not one hydroboost has been replaced). The hydroboost can start leaking fluid, but even so you won't lose power. Worse case scenario is you'll need to add fluid to your pump. So where a vacuum booster totally fails the hydroboost will still work even if it starts to leak. The smaller the master cylinder bore the less foot pressure it takes to stop your vehicle, but the more stroke (how far you have to press down) it takes to actually stop it. The bigger the bore the more pressure it takes but the less stroke needed. For example, if you put a 5/8 bore master cylinder on it would feel like power brakes, but you wouldn't have the stroke to actually stop. If you put a 2 inch bore you'd stop in half an inch, but it would be so hard you'd never actually be able to get the vehicle to stop (it would feel like stopping a tank with your feet). 1. Most Jeeps take a master cylinder that is 15/16-1 inch bore. This is fine with stock brakes and tires. But when you put on bigger axles/brakes or tires it's just too small. So we put a 1 &1/8th master cylinder to give you the fluid pressure you need. The end result with this master and the hydroboost is you stop in 1 inch travel. The hydroboost puts out so much power even with this master cylinder you stop on a dime. 2. If you used a vacuum booster with the 1 inch bore your brakes can almost reach the floor before stopping if you have updated your axles or brakes to a bigger system. 1. To get the 1,000-1,100 level of vacuum boosters you need to use duel-diaphragm units. The sizes of these units are 9 and 1-inch diameter. Thats' a lot of space to use in your typical cramped engine compartment. It's impossible to use if you added a blower or have a hydraulic clutch. If you went with a bigger cam and still had room you'd still have a vacuum problem. Bigger cams use more vacuum that directly takes away from the vacuum booster. 2. The hydroboost measures 4.5 inches in diameter. That's the same size of your master cylinder. Obviously all vehicles have a master so it fits in any vehicle. The total length is 14.5 inches so it's comparable to vacuum booster's length. It works off your power steering unit, so bigger cams don't affect this whatsoever. Stock power steering units put out 1,100lbs of pressure. When you add this hydroboost you need a pump that puts out 1,500lbs to be able to use both the steering and the brake unit. This is an upgrade many people have already done to get better steering. When you add the pump you're actually increasing both your brakes and your steering, it's a dual upgrade. The pumps we use are the exact same pumps that came on your vehicle. There's no bracket or pulley change to do. The upgrade is inside the pump so you won't see a difference, but you'll sure feel it. The kits come complete. There's no drilling or cutting involved. Typical installation time is 2 hours from start to finish, adding whatever time it takes to replace the pump. All you'll need to supply is fluids and in some cases you may need to reflare a line. This system works with any vehicle out there, not just Off-Road. We have made custom built kits for many different vehicles. These include, 57 Buick, 63 Corvette, 72 Chevelle, many Ford trucks and cars, the list is huge. With the power and size of this system it solves many problems. We build the booster and master cylinder to your car specs. We include fittings to convert your gearbox, power steering pump and Hydroboost to 3/8ths male flare. This is the fitting all hose makers use to make custom hoses. We do this because where our system will fit and work perfectly on your vehicle, we can't supply the different hoses each vehicle would need like we do with our Jeep® kits. Hoses typically cost $25.00-35.00 each to have made.

Hydroboost
M/C Direct mount bracket
Hoses